F. A. Q.

(Frequently and not-so-Frequently Asked Questions)

This page was compiled to assist those with answers to questions we are always asked on the phone or through email.

Updated: 11.13.2011

Phone Call of the Century...

Caller: "Hey there, what time do you go to lunch?"

Hard Working Futara Employee with an Appetite for a Burger: "1:30 p.m."

Caller: "Great! I've got something to drop off and I need to talk to someone about my pedalboard - I should get there JUST BEFORE you leave..."

Q 0.5: “Your company has a unique name - what does it mean?”

Q 0.6: “What methods of payment do you accept?”

Q1: “Your Website looks pretty simple using cheesy bright colors. Why is that?”

Q1a: “Your Website doesn't show your business address. Why is that?”

Q2: “Why does it sometimes take you guys so long to complete repairs?”

Q2a: “Why do you take in certain repairs and not others?”

Q2b: “OK, I get it - you only take in certain out of warranty repairs. Is that why you always ask for the make, model and serial number of those units in question before bringing it in for service?”

Q2c: “Do you honor extended warranties?”

Q2d: “My amp just got stolen! Is that covered under warranty?”

Q2e: “Hey! I- ... go-t ... an- mp-p-p ( ... ) ... nee-d ad..s ... ( .. .) c-n y- ...*... -t? ... ”

Q2f: “WuD-uP dAwg! - mY hOmEy He GoT mAd SkilLz dRoPiN' DeF bEaTz A'iGhT! - ChEcK iT oUt - We cHiLl In mY cRiB wIt A fAt SpLiFf an BOOM! - I tHiNk i'Z Su-'In wHiTh dA sWiTcHbOaRd Yo...KnOw Wut I'm SaYin?”

Q2g: “I need a Tortex .60mm pick - Orange. I can only use those because my notes are way more defined. Do you sell Tortex Picks?”

Q2h: “...so, for my stock Marshall 70's 100watt JMP, you are saying that your effects loop mod has no mix or send or return controls - only send and return jacks? My LINE 6 amp has those features...”

Q3: “Can I use WD-40 to clean my pots (controls)?”

Q4: “I broke or cut off my ground (third prong) pin from my AC plug. Is this dangerous?”

Q5: “I have a TV - VCR - DVD - Cassette Player – Microwave oven that needs repair. Will you fix it?”

Q6: “The back of my amp it shows 600W but it doesn't sound like it puts that much power out. Why not?”

Q7: “I just purchased a large mixing console and I am having a lot of trouble getting it to work right. The level meters aren't working, I can't get any sound through my aux sends, there are way too many buttons to push and I have the attention span of a 2 year old. What should I do?”

Q8: “Sometimes, you or one of your technicians seem rude or a bit uninterested on the telephone. Don't you want my business?”

Q8a: “Hello: FUTAR ELECT ! We are a family of traveling musicians who will soon be in your area...Since we operate on a non-profit basis, we request the repair of [list of really obsolete equipment] as a donation to help our cause. Your services will assist us in spreading the word all over the country (soon the world!) about [insert faith here] family values, education and problems relating to overindulgence...We will be happy to provide you with any necessary information for your taxes...”

Q8b: “Hi, I am on my way to your shop and I forgot my Sales Receipt for my unit under warranty - I have my new-born with me and still have to pick up my 3-year-old from school and I am late for picking up my wife from work - can I just drop it off and could you call the store I bought if from to have them FAX the receipt to you?”

Q9: “My console is making noises and someone has told me that it needs to be cleaned. What do you think?

Q10: “Why do you say I shouldn't use [a popular brand of power tube] in my Mesa Boogie amp?”

Q11: “You seem to know a lot about Fender amps. Did you work for the factory? Did you know Leo Fender?”

Q11a: “Why don't you work on guitars?”

Q12: “How long should my tubes last?”

Q12a: “Why can't I find any good NEW tubes anymore? I mean, it seems like there is such a high percentage of failure with NEW stock that NOS tubes are now becoming harder to find --- everyone who knows this buys them up -- they also understand that NOS vacuum tubes are far superior in quality and reliability! What do you think?”

Q13: “My amp hums - why?”

Q14: “Do I really have to replace my power supply capacitors? -- a tech told me I always have to -- even after a few years!”

Q15: “Some tube dealer website's are selling preamp tubes with balanced sections. Do I really need this and what do you think?”

Q16: “Why do I get shocked when I play?”

Q17: “I blew a fuse on my amp and replaced the fuse with one a friend gave me that was a higher amperage - cuz he said it was better. The amp made a horrible noise then smoked and died. What happened?”

Q18: “My tubes have a blue-ish glow. I was told by a tech at [a well known shop or website blog/forum] that they were going to fail. Is this true?”

Q19: “Which tubes do you like and dislike -- which do you prefer or recommend for most amps?”

Q20: “What do you think of the vacuum tubes distributed by GROOVE TUBES?”

Q20a: “Do you use a tube tester?”

Q21: “What amps do you like or like to work on and what should I look out for when buying an amp?

Q22: “I was told to replace all my preamp caps with orange drop types - what do you think?”

Q23: “I want to buy a new amp but I have no idea which one to get - do you have any tips?”

Q23a: “Hi, I'm 15 years old and started playing guitar. My mom and I went to [a nationally known mega music store] and the sales person told her that if I wanted to start playing well and sound great, I needed a [very expensive professional amplifier] to start. Was that sales person lying to us?”

Q24: “I am only using one side of my solid-state power amplifier. I was told by a guy at [a nationally known major music store] that I need to put a load on the speaker output terminals so it won't burn up. Is this true?”

Q25: “What does F.E.T. stand for and why should I care?”

Q26: “Series, Parallel, what is the difference?”

Q26a: “Is it true that the Earth's magnetic pole shift sometime near 2012 will effect the performance of my speakers?”

Q27: “What do you think about Torres Mods?”

Q27a: “Which modifications does your company perform?”

Q28: “My amp failed! Why?”

Answers

Q 0.5: “Your company has a unique name - what does it mean?”

A 0.5: FUTARA is a name I chose because I liked the way it sounds. How I came about it has a story that is irrelevant (ungrateful and inconsiderate ex-ex-ex-girlfriend grumblegrumblegrumble...) so I won't bore anyone with details. On the other hand, it does have a noble and sacred origin - check out this link: Futara-san Shrine or this link: Futara-san Shrine. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q 0.6: “What methods of payment do you accept?”

A 0.5: We accept CASH or VISA and Mastercard ONLY ---- NO PERSONAL OR COMPANY CHECKS OF ANY KIND or ANY OTHER TYPE OF CREDIT CARD. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q1: “Your Website looks pretty simple using a cheesy bright green color. Why is that?”

A1: Well, thanks for noticing! We need to use bright green in order to appease those individuals suffering from a bad case of attention deficit syndrome. Keep checking back with us as the squeaky toys, shiny objects and sound effects will come at a later time. Also, our site is coded using simple HTML for the reason that there are still individuals all over the country (or world) still using really slow computers like a 486 running WIN 95 and a 56K modem. Therefore, this site is really for them. Anyway, what the heck are you complaining about - it did load ultra-quickly! ( - back to FAQ...)

2011 UPDATE: Attention frugal minded individuals! We are in the process of updating various aspects of this site --- changes involve some flash animations so, you better upgrade to at least a computer with a pentium processor and an OS like WIN 98 (ugh!) to view them faster - cost? - about $20 bucks. Oh yeah, a cheap DSL line would help too. (really, you should be running LINUX with a superfast broadband connection but that is a whole other discussion).

- Set your P.C. FREE !

Q1a: “Your Website doesn't show your business address. Why is that?”

A1a: Yeah, I know. I didn't put the address on the site on purpose for the reason that I don't want to be disturbed by folks just showing up for no real reason other than to just talk or see if we really exist. There is an even better reason for not listing an address --- I do not want every "bot" on the internet sniffing out physical addresses to clog up the search engines. Those who want to do business with us will make the effort to call us and get the address. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q2: “Why does it sometimes take you guys so long to complete repairs?”

A2: Three common reasons for this: First, we have a quicker turn-around than most service centers but we, as well, get bogged down so a definite turn-around time is never stated - only approximated - and that could change as well! Second, we believe in repairing as much of the machine as possible using factory parts -- this could delay repairs but is well worth it in the end. Remember, quality of the work is far more important to us than just "banging it out." We want to see you again with a different instrument with a different problem -- not the same instrument with the same problem. Last, we have found that obtaining parts for older machines has become increasingly difficult. Research to find the correct part is always performed and with a little luck, we get it! ( - back to FAQ...)

Q2a: “Why do you take in certain repairs and not others?”

A2a: There are many reasons for why we pick and choose repairs. I will not go into specifically why we won't and what we will service as those reasons would only EXASPERATE some of you as they are far too lengthy for this F.A.Q. - check out OUR LIST of equipment we absolutely do not support anymore. It is imperative for us to note that our obligation as an authorized service center for the manufacturers we support is to: 1.) - provide efficient and trouble free assistance to customers for machines covered under the manufacturers warranty - however long it is and for what is covered. Yes, there are limitations and other unspecified terms but we make those points as clear as possible to you. If your product is within the warranty period, you will get, for the most part, a free repair as long as you understand the terms involved. 2.) - make an effort to provide quick turn-around within reason. There are many factors involved regarding why this does not happen all the time but you will be notified if there are any delays. 3.) - inform customers that we do not have to repair every machine brought in to us that is considered non-warranty, out of warranty or something we or the manufacturer no longer supports. We will always support machines under the manufacturers warranty but when it is a non-warranty or out of warranty issue, WE HAVE THE RIGHT TO REFUSE working on "those products." If you have any questions regarding the warranty coverage of products we support, the most common answers are listed HERE. ( - back to FAQ...)

A2b: YUP! You got it! Before phoning us, you should have the make, model and serial number whenever you have an older unit you want repaired. Some of them are rapidly becoming obsolete and manufacturers are no longer supporting them. When that happens, there are fewer parts available to fix them. You can look up our growing list of obsolete and unsupported units HERE. Also, we see it as a courtesy to you so you won't have to make the trek here and then tell you we don't support it. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q2c: “Do you honor extended warranties?”

A2c: NO. You need to get in contact with the store that sold that to you. There may be a website or listing of service centers that may help you. The manufacturers do not honor them either - unless, they provide that service to you - usually, it is FREE OF CHARGE - you just have to fill out and mail them a warranty card to get some extra time added onto your coverage if available. At that point, we would then repair your product under warranty without question. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q2d: “My amp just got stolen! Is that covered under warranty?”

A2d: NO! Please! Serious questions only! ( - back to FAQ...)

Q2e: “Hey! I- ... go-t ... an- mp-p-p ( ... ) ... nee-d ad..s ... ( .. .) c-n y- ...*... -t? ... ”

A2e: Sorry, I don't speak "AT&T iPhone." ( - back to FAQ...)

Q2f: “WuD-uP dAwg! - mY hOmEy He GoT mAd SkilLz dRoPiN' DeF bEaTz A'iGhT! - ChEcK iT oUt - We cHiLl In mY cRiB wIt A fAt SpLiFf an BOOM! - I tHiNk i'Z Su-'In wHiF dA sWiTcHbOaRd Yo...KnOw Wut I'm SaYin?”

A2f: From what I can gather from your inquiry, you are stating that you and your good friend were using your equipment when something failed and that you believe it might be your mixing or DJ console. Depending on which one it is, we can give you an estimate on the repair. Keep in mind, equipment use and it's eventual failure whilst enjoying a "fat spliff" may not be covered under manufacturers warranty - it would be something like driving a motor vehicle drunk on alcohol - "F'-ReeL yO!". ( - back to FAQ...)

Q2g: “I need a Tortex .60mm pick - Orange. I should only use those because my friend told me my notes would be way more defined. Do you sell them?”

A2g: Well, No. We do not sell any accessories like that. I like the Dunlap Tortex series but find they are a little pricey. Try a Fender Medium - they work just as well - in my opinion (yeah, yeah, I know they easily grind down but you need to control yourself when doing those Tom Shultz pick-on-string drag-runs on the round wounds). Tell your friend to get over himself and use them as well. You will both end up saving a lot of money buying a gross of them in the long run - and besides, when you start playing packed stadiums, you won't think twice about tossing your expensive picks into the audience. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q2h: “...so, for my stock Marshall 70's 100watt JMP, you are saying that your effects loop mod has no mix or send or return controls - only send and return jacks? My LINE 6 amp has those features...”

A2h: <click - dial tone...> Don't ever compare a 1970's JMP to a LINE 6 === EVER!

With regard to our effects loop mod --- yes, it only has a send and return with no potentiometers. Yeah, that is all --- really --- we have engineered ours to be as simple as possible without adding more crap in the signal path. Yes, it is a tube effects loop that uses a 12AU7 in cathode follower configuration as a send and an amplifier on the return --- very clean! The send could actually be used as an unbalanced line output to drive other amps for slave use.

We want to PRESERVE the tone of the preamp without killing it with variable impedance -- and NO, you cannot use it with standard junky instrument pedals that were designed for an amplifiers input -- you will kill the pedal with hot line level signal! Now, as far as controlling the level of that signal, you need to adjust it at the effect. Most rack and line level effects have input and output controls so, why install them on the amp? Why punch holes more holes on the back panel of the chassis? Why would anyone in their right mind destroy and deface a beautiful and rare stock Marshall JMP? What are you a sadist or something?

Q3: “Can I use WD-40 to clean my pots (potentiometer controls)?”

A3: NO!! Do not use WD-40, Gum-out carb cleaner, tuner cleaner from Radio Shack (that is a REALLY old reference to brass contact TV drum-type tuners), linseed oil, BBQ sauce or anything else! We use Caig Labs DeoxIT "Fader-Lube F5" solution on troublesome potentiometers and have also used it as a METAL contact enhancer as well. DeoxIT D5 is even better for METAL CONTACTS - like Switchcraft 11 & 12 series jacks or your old bakelite (or polyoxybenzylmethylenglycolanhydride as we refer to it here at Futara) and brass contact Bell telephone 1/4" studio patch bays.

( - back to FAQ...)

Q4: “I broke or cut off my ground (third prong) pin from my AC plug. Is this dangerous?”

A4: It could be… - depending on where and how you are using your instrument. A ground pin is there mainly for your protection against electrocution. It provides a low-resistance path back to the source instead of using you as a conductor to Earth. Some machines (like tube amps and lighting equipment) are complete shock hazards whereas some (like digital keyboards) are less likely to be. You should have the AC plug replaced or just don't cut it off in the first place. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q5: “I have a TV - VCR - DVD - Cassette Player – Microwave oven that needs repair. Will you fix it?”

A5: No. Throw it away and buy a new one. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q6: “The back of my amp shows 600W but it doesn't sound like it puts that much power out. Why not?”

A6: The power rating shown near the power cord is what the machine consumes in order for it to function. Most of that energy is dissipated into space as heat or other radiation (electrodynamic noise). The rest of it is what you hear. It most likely dissipates 100 to 150 Watts of acoustic energy (power) at the load (speaker). ( - back to FAQ...)

Q7: “I just purchased a large mixing console and I am having a lot of trouble getting it to work right. The level meters aren't working, I can't get any sound through my aux sends, there are way too many buttons to push and I have the attention span of a 2 year old. What should I do?”

A7: This question is one of the worst and I hear it from time to time so, this is my answer: Take some Ritalin and go ask your mom or older sister to read you the owners manual before you start bragging to unsuspecting corporate event promoters that you have a "way killer system." You really need to enlighten and educate yourself with a large amount of knowledge and experience to use a console with "way too many buttons to push." We get calls everyday from users with over-inflated egos (especially individuals suffering from a bad case of "console envy") who ask us common sense questions resulting in a complete waste of our time. !!!!!! READ YOUR OWNERS MANUAL !!!!!!

:::::: "No, unplug everything!" - Quote from a Mackie Console Service Manual -- (good advice!!) ( - back to FAQ...)

Q8: “Sometimes, you or one of your technicians seem rude or a bit uninterested on the telephone. Don't you want my business?”

A8: Yes! We always want new customers! Do not take our behavior personally as there are only three of us here and two answer the phone. You need to keep in mind that our shop is very busy and we do not have time to listen to your personal anecdotes regarding a close encounter with [insert famous rock star here] or his or her equipment or what concerts you have gigged at, who owned your amp before you, etc. We understand you want to "shoot the bull" and name drop but that cannot happen as there is/are other customers waiting to be assisted, other callers on the line, massive amounts of paperwork, Mail person, UPS or FEDX dude, bottled water man, the list goes on... We are very "nuts and bolts" people. You are always welcome to call us so ask relevant questions and we will respond with answers.

( - back to FAQ...)

A8a: Thanx for the email but my answer is: NO!

Best of luck to you,

FUTAR ELECT

P.S. I ain't got no tickets to Knotts, Magic Mountain or Disneyland to give away either... ( - back to FAQ...)

Q8b: “Hi, I am on my way to your shop and I forgot or cannot find my Sales Receipt for my unit under warranty - I have my new-born with me and still have to pick up my 3-year-old from school and am late for picking up my wife from work - can I just drop this unit off and could you call the store I bought if from to have them FAX the receipt to you? - I REALLY need it for tomorrow otherwise, I won't be able to pay my rent...”

A8b: No, and No. Firstly, we have two different systems of paperwork for warranty and non-warranty units in for service. We require all proper paperwork before you walk through the door! This is important for you and us. This insures proper throughput in the sequence of events regarding that repair. Time is a MAJOR factor regarding warranty repairs. Think about it... If you did work for a contracting company and they said they would not pay you because the paperwork wasn't in order after you did everything to accommodate their client (putting your money up front to finish the job) and now you need to spend more time making sure the proper paperwork is acquired from the client to at least repeat the billing process?!? Absurd!!! For this reason, we are very strict regarding paperwork. If you bring in a unit under warranty without paperwork looking for a free repair, then one of two things may happen: A.) We will send you and your defective machine on your way. B.) You may leave the unit but we will charge you a storage fee of $2.00 per day and will also receive no claim ticket from us. So, basically, you leave your machine at the door and we will completely ignore it (and charge you) until you figure things out. Secondly, FAX machines are a thing of the past and are expensive to maintain - that is obsolete technology we no longer use. You will need to provide us with either a digital image or .pdf of your documents. See our Warranty Guidelines for more information.

Remember:

"Poor planning on your part does not constitute as an emergency on mine."

Since you have blessed this beautiful world with children, you may want to indirectly teach the following lessons to them as well. Look in a mirror and repeat at least one or two of these guidelines every morning when you awaken to a new day - they will help you with your paperwork issues.

1.) I am a good person and thank goodness for another day of life.

2.) I am a moral, ethical, and affable person.

3.) I will never impress my radical beliefs and insecurities on others.

4.) I will never express blame, through projection, onto others as a result of my own shortcomings.

5.) I will use good judgment and common sense.

6.) I will not be a burden on others and the system.

7.) I will love and encourage others to love as well.

8.) HATE is not in my vocabulary.

9.) I will work hard and be a responsible person, provider and parent.

10.) I am proud to be an American citizen in this great country known as the United States of America.

You may also want to check out Michael Josephson's Website

( - back to FAQ...)

Q9: “My console is making noises and someone has told me that it needs to be cleaned. What do you think?”

A9: Hmmm.... Well, there are many answers to that one. First, not all consoles need any kind of "cleaning" -- the kind of "cleaning" people may think is "cleaning." The truth is there are more complex problems with mixing consoles than just opening it up and blowing it out. Yes, the front panel gets really dirty but you can dust it off with a soft bristle paint brush. That is easy!! When you have noise issues, that could be a combination of several failures or just one -- really, it depends on how old the mixer is and how it has been maintained. Second, some consoles, like modern consoles that do almost everything you probably don't need, cannot be "cleaned" -- in most cases, the pots within them cannot be lubricated and faders will not react the same even after lubrication - therefore, those machines are pretty much history and are just plain junk. We have great success when these parts are replaced. That is a proper repair than merely spraying lubricant all over everything and telling a client "yup, your console has been cleaned." See Question 3 for more on this issue.

The real problem is repair cost -- by replacing so many pots and faders, the cost of labor and parts sometimes exceed the cost of the unit. Last, the consoles I am referring to are usually the cheap ones sold at [a large retail music store] and cost under $2,500.00 -- WHAT? You say you paid $2,500.00 for a console and think it isn't "cheap?!?" -- Do you really think that you can offer professional sound reproduction services with one you purchased at [a large retail music store]? Well, if you think two grand is "a lot of money" for a console, you are in the wrong business my friend! Professional engineers and sound companies use consoles that cost as high (if not more) as $30,000 to $60,000 for used or new ones. Those consoles are the real deal and guess what -- they are easier to service, sound better, and last a heck-of-a lot longer too!!! The proportional cost of service on those machines is lower than the junk that is sold to consumers. You will NEVER EVER see the more expensive consoles at [a well known music retail store]. Remember, you will always GET what you pay for. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q10: “Why do you say I shouldn't use [a popular brand of power tube] in my Mesa Boogie amp?”

A10: Mesa Amps have a fixed bias hence, it cannot be adjusted easily to accept anything else. I have spoken with the service technicians at Mesa and they say that it may be OK to use them but they may not perform as well -- PLUS, in order for Mesa amps to work with other tubes, the bias supply must be modified in order for users or technicians to make the adjustment. Other factors like tube reliability as well as longevity - especially when they get the crap kicked out of them in "bold" and "solid-state" rectifier mode (dual and triple rectifier heads). We do not recommend installing anything other than what Mesa Boogie recommends for their amplifiers (I guess if you have to, a grade 4 to 6 will work). We install Mesa Boogie tubes in Mesa Boogie amps -- period -- no exceptions. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q11: “You seem to know a lot about Fender amps. Did you work for the factory? Did you know Leo Fender?”

A11: I have moderate knowledge and experience (about 25 years) regarding the service and repair of Tweed, Brown, Blackface, CBS and contemporary Fender tube and solid-state amplifiers. As far as my knowledge of the Fender company and it's employees, I know very little about that. I never worked for the Fender company but did know a few people who did during the early CBS years and they have some pretty funny and tragic stories. I had the pleasure of meeting Leo Fender twice: Once when I was 15 years old when he sold me a G&L guitar prototype for $100 out the front door of his office in 1981 (my father met him and George Fullerton as well!) and the other time was at the 1989 NAMM Show. I never knew the man but when I saw him again at NAMM, he was in a wheel chair and in his late seventies. He asked me (while I was checking out a Telecaster look-a-like) in a very soft voice if "I liked the guitar." I told him everything I loved about everything he had contributed to the world of electric instruments. That was a proud moment for me as that was the only opportunity I had to tell him how I really felt about G&L, Fender Guitars and Amplifiers. Sadly, he died in early 1991 - Thanks again Leo! Be sure to check out our OBITS page for information regarding George Fullerton and Leo Fender. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q11a: “Why don't you work on guitars?”

A11a: I do! I do! I work on a lot of guitars --- some brought in under Fender Warranty for minor electronics issues AND my own. Really, you want to know the real reason why we are not a full service guitar and amp shop? I believe in specializing in one genre at a time. The really good guitar techs ONLY work on guitars and not amps. We work on amplifiers --- specifically vintage Fender, Mesa Boogie, Ampeg.... the list goes on. I really don't want that headache of having to spend more time on learning a part of the service trade that incorporates stringed instruments as that could be quite costly - more so as we would have to also stock those parts as well AND have every wood and vice and specialty tool necessary to even consider doing that type of work. So, we will just stick to the soldering irons, oscilloscopes, VTVMs, DVMs, load banks, signal generators and a multitude of other equipment and parts for what we ABSOLUTELY LOVE to service --- Vintage Instrument Amplifiers!!

Here are a few referrals for local professional stringed instrument service - acoustic and electric guitars and basses:

Soest Guitar: Orange, California - (714) 538-0272 - Steve's Website

TR Guitars: Tustin, California - (714) 731-6262 - Tom's Website

Laguna Guitars (The Guitar Shoppe): Laguna Beach, California - (949) 497-2110 - The Guitar Shoppe Website

Please! Do me a favor and DO NOT bother these folks with your trivial instrument issues --- if you need your strings replaced, go to your local [ insert big box musical instrument warehouse here ]. The people who run the businesses listed above are TRUE professionals I have known for many years. Call them with your RELEVENT questions regarding stringed instrument service.

2011: (The Stratocaster Saga - click here) So, I walk into a local guitar shop...

( - back to FAQ...)

Q12: “How long should my tubes last?”

A12: The longevity of tubes depends on the tubes, amp, and how much you use it. For example : A set of 5881/6L6 (the good wafer base or WXT Russian ones) in an old Fender amp used 6 hours a week should last up to 2 years before they start to lose "liveliness" - if used everyday, about a year. A good set of Chinese 6L6 under the same conditions will last half as long. 6BQ5s are a different story as there are many amps that use them running nice and cool or really freakin' HOT! So, they will either last 3 months or 3 years. The bias setting on an amp will have an effect on tube life as well. Older Fenders are easy on tubes while old Hi-Watt amps , or modified Marshalls, using EL34s, have a tendency to run really hot - which, if you like that "British Tone," may not really be a bad thing! ( - back to FAQ...)

A12a: Well... Yes and no. Your question is definitely a mouthful.

First of all, excellent, reliable stock does exist but not in the price range you want to pay. I am assuming you are installing them into your guitar or bass amplifier and not into any HiFi equipment. With that assumed, this is an instance of "you get what you pay for." With the current world economy practically in a shambles, cheap tubes are good enough for what we (you, me and every other guitar player) will use mainly for tone - this is true! Sometimes junky tubes sound pretty good in certain instrument amplifiers! We do not need flat response on a guitar amp turned all the way up!

Second, most vacuum tube manufacturers, especially off shore, are using equipment that is most likely falling apart! What contemporary businessmen, in their right mind, are going to invest several hundred thousand dollars on designing (or even properly maintaining) new hardware to manufacture components that are essentially obsolete! None - Zero - Nobody. The industry is, for the most part, a cottage industry only for the reason that it holds such a Niche market and there is really no REAL profit in it --- at least what those greedy investment bankers consider to be REAL PROFIT (big big BIG bucks!). They care nothing about the art of it. So, really, we get what we can afford for now and hopefully everything will remain at least, status quo - for a while longer anyway... I have a very strong opinion and could go on and on about why and how this is happening but I recently read an article written by Phillip Holmes regarding this exact subject. Following are statements that answer a part of your question:

Mr. Holmes states:

"...most audiophiles and musicians are not willing to pay what we should be paying for electronics. The avalanche of cheaply produced electronics has given people the impression that anything electronic is easy to make and should be cheap, or they are being screwed. If you look at what people had to pay for a top quality ECC88 in the '60s, it was much more expensive back then when adjusted for inflation. People don't want to pay $100 for one tube (there are exceptions, of course). This “cheap” attitude has kept prices low and starved the tube manufacturers of much needed investment capital.

Many people have also adjusted to the poor quality of today’s tubes: The guitar players really don't need top notch tubes. They run them full out, and distortion is what they are looking for, not linearity. Sure, the old tubes had different tone, but a Russian EL34 can come close to a Mullard when being over-driven by a heavy metal thrasher. The front-end circuit of a guitar amp makes most of the tone, that's where overload and distortion is designed into the amp."

also:

"Incredibly old equipment is being used. The equipment is sometimes twice as old as the people using them. The people who designed and built the machines are dead and most of the subtle tweaks of fine tuning such machines are lost. Today, with ISO certification, there are records of any time a screw is turned a certain way, but not back in the '30s-'60s. Much of this equipment actually needs to be rebuilt and/or replaced; but there aren't too many options for sourcing such equipment. It can be done, but it's not as easy as it was 50 years ago."

The article is brilliantly written and has a wealth of information --- the site it is on is also FULL of vacuum tube and audio information ---- YOU should check it out!

Here is the link --> click here and read - become enlightened!

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Q13: “My amp hums or buzzes - why?”

A13: Amp hum and buzz are crazy demons that won't go away unless you exorcise them. Although they may both be the same annoyance, I like to separate the two only because some players will understand this better than lumping it all into one thing --- noise!

Lets examine Hum first: Hum could be caused by several different issues given there is no instrument, or instrument cable plugged into the amplifier whilst it is idling. Hum could be "bucked out" or attenuated easily by making a filament hum balance adjustment on tube amps. Hum issues could also be complicated when there is DC offset in various locations of the PCB due to leaky capacitors or when other semiconductor devices are failing. The most common cause of hum is power supply capacitors (including bias supply) in vacuum tube amplifiers. If they are old, they should be replaced. Old caps are made of basically wax paper and foil (not exactly but it works in this description). The dielectric material dries up and causes the caps to either leak and not filter or pass AC. They can short and pass minimal or full amounts of DC. In a tube amp bias circuit, problems with dry caps could cause hum for the reason that they cannot filter as well or will short to allow the voltage on the grid of output tubes to become closer to 0V. BAD!! This can cause the tubes to idle too high! This type of failure depletes tube longevity and causes their eventual failure. Grounding is usually never an issue (unless you have a ground loop or bad solder joints that have caused a floating ground problem) for the reason that reputable manufacturers tie all grounds to one point -- you need to watch out for "hack-nicians" that "do" modifications because they can create new problems by ignoring grounding points.

Amp Buzz is an anomaly that is definitely the most perplexing to deal with. If you have a buzzing issue and it gets louder and softer as you move around the room or turning your body to create a "cancellation effect" (remember your trigonometry: -1@270deg + 1@90deg = 0), buzz may not be the a fault in the amplifier but the environment the instrument, amp, cables and effects are in. For example, if you are at home and you are trying to record instrument tracks on your computer and the buzz is so bad that you can't even get a good take. Well, that noise could be something in the room like those old, noisy CRT computer monitors (LCD ones do not create buzz but cheap ones create a small high pitch whine from the switching psu). Neon signs, power lines and/or mains transformer outside your window, neighbor with old refrigerator in the garage, fluorescent lights, light dimmers, AC wall wart adapters, and other digital equipment contributes to this as well! Your instrument is like an antenna = it is picking up every bit of electromagnetic and electrostatic interference / radiation then sending that signal to be amplified. Turn your electronic gadgets and other stuff off one at a time until you find the culprit.( - back to FAQ...)

Q14: “Do I really have to replace my power supply capacitors? -- a tech told me I always have to -- even after a few years!”

A14: No, not necessarily. We try to keep amplifiers as stock as possible but sometimes, parts need to be replaced -- we try to replace parts with anything close to what the manufacturer would have used if it is no longer available. For some amps, we use the American types unless a customer specifically states that he doesn't care what we use. Cap technology has come a long way and the old paper and foil types should be changed but not always. If your caps are leaking all over the place then replace them. If they look good and the amp performs well, leave them alone. If your amp was made in the later 70s, most likely, the caps are ok. Don't let some wise-ass technician talk you into replacing your power supply capacitors just because he says so. Ask him why it needs to be done (aside from lining his pocket with your cash) and watch him closely fumble for an answer. Remember, the more new parts are used in a vintage amp the less it stays a vintage amp - tone is affected as well!!!

2010 UPDATE: Recently, we have received many NEW amplifiers and keyboards from manufacturers coming straight out of CHINA (Ugh! that figures...) and have found that some, if not many more than usual, have leaky capacitor issues. This may be due to inferior workmanship and sub-standard quality control out of some off-shore semiconductor factories. I cannot remember ever seeing an American made Sprague or Mallory capacitor leaking all over the place after only a couple of years of use. Mind you, the chemicals leaking out of these caps are potentially poisonous if you decide to change them yourself so, wear gloves and/or wash your hands when handling them!! Still, you should have an HONEST technician professional take a look at your capacitors to let you know the condition. The statements I made earlier still hold for units made in the late 70s to the early 90s.

This is not supposed to happen so quickly!

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Q15: “Some tube dealer website's are selling preamp tubes with balanced sections. Do I really need this and what do you think?”

A15: The whole "balanced triodes" or "balanced sections" thing seems really weird to me. It smacks of smelly fish in some way. It feels more like a marketing ploy to sell tubes at a higher cost. I can understand matched pairs or quads of power tubes as equal amounts of plate current through the output transformer has some credibility (really, tubes should be matched using the amp in which they are to be installed - transformer tolerance and all -- heh, heh...). If I owned a pair of Hi-Fi tube mono block amplifier with ultra precise wire wound resistors, incredibly expensive super transparent sounding capacitors, precision wound transformers, blah, blah, blah -- can you see where I am going with this? In my opinion, only machines that are precision engineered with precision components would benefit from this. A stock 1965 Fender twin with 10% tolerance carbon composition resistors, crap capacitors (disc, blue or brown ones in the preamp), wire with a trace of resistance, a chassis that has no copper connecting ALL the ground points, age, etc... Don't get me wrong, a GREAT amp but a tolerance nightmare! -- I just do not see any benefit in this "balanced triode business." Also, I really do not see any advantage to other processes as well: Cryo treatments, gold pins, etc.! Who knows - it appears too much like voodoo to me... Be careful of snake oil vendors... ( - back to FAQ...)

Q16: “Why do I get shocked when I play?”

A16: There may be a dozen or more reasons for why people get ZAPPED when they play. Ever grabbed a microphone whilst holding your guitar at the neck? I have and it doesn't feel good! The top two reasons why I feel individuals get shocked is this: 1.) The ground connection on your amp chassis is good and clean but the mixer where the microphone is hooked into is floating! Yup, that one could hurt - especially, on the lip and face area of your head! Watch out for that! 2.) There could be a leaky polarity switch cap -- this could be dangerous for the reason that 120V AC is leaking through this cap onto the chassis making you a human electrical conductor to ground referenced elsewhere. One of our customers, while using his amplifier, insisted that he continued to get shocked. He told us that he was not singing into any microphones or touching any other instruments. It was perplexing because musicians know that there could be a possibility of getting shocked while singing (lips touching the mic). The cause: he was bare-foot on a slap of wet concrete -- a perfect conductor to earth - ground - from the amp with its own ground taken from the AC line! Sheesh! He could have been a human hotdog! ( - back to FAQ...)

Q17: “I blew a fuse on my amp and replaced the fuse with one a friend gave me that was a higher amperage - cuz he said it was better . The amp made a horrible noise then smoked and died. What happened?”

A17: You may have done more damage by allowing more current into the circuits. If your amp blows a fuse, always replace it with one of the same value. If it blows again, Stop and GET IT CHECKED OUT !! Do not wrap foil around it or use a value other than the rating that is specified. You can purchase any fuse for most amps at Radio Shack or any other consumer electronics store like Fry's Electronics.

...Current is the rate of flow of electric charge past a point. The unit of measure is the ampere, or amp...Incidentally, don't call current "amperage"; that's strictly bush-league. (The Art of Electronics - 2nd Ed - Horowitz & Hill, Pg. 4)

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Q18: “My tubes have a blue-ish glow. I was told by a tech at [a well known shop or website blog/forum] that they were going to fail. Is this true?”

A18: Shame on that tech! No, this is not necessarily true. The blue glow is caused by the excess impurities / other gasses left over after the tube has been exhausted. The blue could get brighter after years of use but that does not mean that it is going to fail - if anything, that should tell you vacuum is still there. New-old stock American tubes are notorious for this and so are some brand new Russian tubes. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q19: “Which tubes do you like and dislike -- which do you prefer or recommend for most amps?”

A19: That is a loaded question as I do business with several vendors and I wouldn't want to upset anyone regarding MY preference of vacuum tube. It really depends on what amp we are talking about. For example, for power tubes in CBS Fender amps, I like to use the RUBY STR series of chinese power tube for budget minded players that like a reliable tube that has great tone. On the other hand, I have been using the 5881 for most other Fenders. I like using MESA/Boogie 6BQ5s for virtually all lower power amps that require them because of their high reliability -- they are a little more expensive but really are better. For Marshalls with EL34s, I like the Electro-Harmonix Siemens psuedo-look-a-like. Finally, the Svetlana (REAL ONES - winged C type) 6550s for Ampeg SVT classics and IIs. As far as 12AX7s go, I use whatever I can get the best tone out of -- JJs, Older Jolida (china), Sovtek, older American and Yugos that do not squeel... The list goes on regarding what I like… -not all tubes sound the same so you need to sit down with a soda and check them out one by one (please be careful... there is high voltage present). ( - back to FAQ...)

Q20: “What do you think of the vacuum tubes distributed by GROOVE TUBES and other tube vendors?”

A20: Well, what can I say here other than every company has to make a buck somehow. No musician I knew ever paid any attention to "matched" anything. The whole "matched" issue for guitar amps came about when a certain company decided to mass market the idea. Really, the question should be "what makes their marketed tubes better than brand X..." I won't answer this one entirely only because I could get into a little trouble AND because not all of these tube marketing companies are bad. For the most part, some are reasonable and good to me with what I use for repairs. I am very critical of the ones that market outrageous nonsense that no-one ever thought about in the first place that would make little to no difference in tone anyway (see question 15). Please do not send me emails saying that tubes make all the difference in tone as I already know this -- I am only critical of vendors that push voodoo propaganda.

Q20a: “Do you use a tube tester?”

A20a: I assume this question relates to the old self-serve models. I remember (as a kid) going into a Sav-on Drugs (now CVS) or Thrifty Drug (now Rite-aid) store and seeing these rickety contraptions prominently displayed for consumer use. What you would do is use the numbered stickers provided in a "how-to" brochure to match tubes with tube sockets inside the rear of a radio or TV (watch that picture tube folks!). You brought your "bottles" into to your local convenience store and right next to the MAD magazines and ice cream counter was the "machine" - The magic box that was going to help you fix your visual media reproducer. Now, it was always hit or miss with these so-called testers because consumers never took into account that the problem could always be something else more common - LIKE A CAPACITOR!!!! Anyway, after setting the tester from a table of generic values, you just plug the tube in question into one of a number of corresponding sockets and an oversized meter on the faceplate will display "GOOD", "BAD" or "?" And ---- that's it! Before I give you my opinion of what this is really all about, do not get offended and send me nasty emails if you are a technician that relys on this "machine" to give you some type of closure on whether or not a vacuum tube is functional. I believe these "Free Self-Service" Tube Testers were a SCAM!!! They (for the most part) merely gave results you expect to see. These machines enticed people to replace vacuum tubes that most likely were not the real cause of any electronic problems. Therefore, they would be another small supplement to a stores income like a gumball or soda vending machine. These machines were not designed to spec out vacuum tubes the way they should be. A real tube testing station monitors all aspects of a vacuum tube such as plate/cathode/grid current and voltage under load conditions with signal and noise tests. Think about it. What piece of professional test equipment do you own that has a meter on it designed to display "GOOD","BAD" or "?" - My O' Scope doesn't - my DVM doesn't and my Distortion Analyzer doesn't either! If anything, those old store self-service tube testers make great filament warming jigs! So, the answer to this question is not a simple NO but NEVER - EVER!

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Q21: “What amps do you like or like to work on and what should I look out for when buying an amp?

A21: As far as guitar amps are concerned, there are a bunch that I really like! I love the tone of a black face Fender Twin and a black face Bassman. The sound produced, with some minor tweaking (Hey! Good tweaking - OK?!?), and some great speakers, is just pure love! I also like old Marshall JMP 50W amps and Plexy Types. It brings back memories of the punk bands I really liked from England back, well... - a really long time ago! There was another one called a PLUSH amp. I had only repaired 2 in my entire career and I totally loved the tone of both those amps. Laney made a couple of amplifiers that were nice. I really liked the distortion channel - a cheesily built amp, in my opinion, but some of them do sound pretty good -when they work. Mesa boogie made the Blue Angel and that one has got to be my absolute favorite Mesa amp along with the Lonestar Special and the Tremoverb. HIWATT made a 50 watt head called an L50 that has one of crappiest distortion channels but the clean channel turned all the way up sounded wonderful. Believe it or not, the Peavey Classic 30 is easily the most useful amp for basically anything. All this being said... Really, every amp has a sound. That sound is relative to the listener. Buy what you think you like. Do not buy anything a salesperson tries to sell you. YOU DECIDE what sounds good for you. Take your instrument and try out some amps you have either heard or read about - tell the sales person to GO AWAY so you can explore the tone you want - take your time. If you like it, you will buy it - good sales people know this. This is my advice to you regarding amp or instrument purchasing.

MOST IMPORTANT >> Check out the manufacturer's website to see what the warranty is like and how well they support their products. As of the beginning of 2009, I have decided to stop promoting and even let go manufacturers that has shown very little service support for their products (and us). Ya' know, we would then have to reflect that attitude on to YOU! I don't want to do that - it gets ugly when a customer is not happy -- makes us look bad! The companies FUTARA supports are really great! Support is the #1 issue when buying any product. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q22: “I was told to replace all my preamp caps with orange drop types - what do you think?”

A22: I like Orange Drops - they can sound a bit "squawkie" at times but overall, a good cap. They make good replacements for defective capacitors. BUT, there are better caps to use - metal particle and silver mica ones. So, depending on the sound you are looking for, consider asking us about alternatives before wanting capacitors replaced on your amp as tone is always affected -

NOTE: Changing all your caps will drastically change the sound of your amp. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q23: “I want to buy a new amp but I have no idea which one to get - do you have any tips?”

A23: The best tip I can give you is to always check out the manufacturer and their reputation for service. Some big and unmentionable manufacturers really do stick it to customers by not fully supporting their products. Our company represents only certain manufacturers that REALLY do care about the product and support it well. It helps our company do more efficient service when we have the manufacturers backing us. ( - back to FAQ...)

A23a: No, that sales person was not lying to either of you. He or she was simply framing his or her vapid beliefs in a way that closes the deal in order to provide a bigger payday (not for you of course...)

Original illustration by: Tanith Connolly - Modified by Marty - from Max Mobley's Article: "Death of a Salesman"

OK, not all sales people are that bad as I do business with a select few folks that are really great and honest. Just watch out for those who loom over you like vultures or snakes ready to strike! Back to the reality of the question -- You DO NOT need a $2,500.00 amplifier in order to play well and sound great -=- that, my young friend, is a different issue. There are many amplifiers you can start with that are under $499.00. Then, maybe, after a few years of "woodshedding" to build your "chops," and show great potential for musicianship, you can get that dream amp (parents like that answer because by then, you will be working to help pay for it!) Check out my LINKS section for decent amplifiers that are reasonably priced and have great factory support (read Q23 & the second part of Q21). ( - back to FAQ...)

Q24: “I am only using one side of my solid-state power amplifier. I was told by a guy at [a nationally known major music super-store] that I need to put a load on the speaker output terminals so it won't burn up. Is this true?”

A24: No! Solid-state amps like infinite impedances as opposed to very very low ones so, you do not need to place a load on that amp. Tube amps like very low impedances as opposed to infinite ones - those amps need to be connected to the load. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q25: “What does F.E.T. stand for and why should I care?”

A25: Field Effect Transistor. FETs are warmer sounding than Bi-polar transistors as they function a lot like triodes – that is why you should care. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q26: “Series, Parallel, what is the difference?”

A26: This is important so pay close attention! Speaker/amp relationships need compatibility. Series circuits allow for only one path for current whereas, parallel circuits allow for two or more paths. Series circuits are the sum of the impedances of the loads and parallel circuits are the reciprocal of the sum of the reciprocal of each of the loads (try that one on your calculator!) So what, right?

To make it easy to understand : Two, 8 ohm speakers, in series (jack hot to (+1), (-1) to (+2), (-2) to jack cold or ground), will give you a total of 16 ohms. 8 + 8 = 16 - get it? Two, 8 ohm speakers, in parallel, (jack hot to (+1) to (+2), jack cold or ground to (-1) to (-2)), will give you a total of 4 ohms or 1/[(1/8)+(1/8)]. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q26a: “Is it true that the Earth's magnetic pole shift sometime near 2012 will effect the performance of my speakers?”

A26a: WOW! What Hi-Fi nut fed you that load? Internet forums cease to amaze me! Well, I preface my statements as being based on pure opinion without actually doing practical research as I know as much about Geophysics as a typical 13th grade junior college student (earth is round, really big, rotates, great place to live...).

A magnetized metallic pointer, balanced on a nearly frictionless pivot or needle, will most likely always align itself with Earth's magnetic field - as a compass will. This sensitive device will deviate just enough with very little force. On the other hand, there is a tremendous amount of electromagnetic work involved with moving air with a voice coil and cone combination. I doubt that the Earth's magnetic field shift would create enough of an opposing force to effect the core of a voice coil gap. So, my answer on this one is NO - assuming that the speakers you are referring to have drivers with actual magnets on them.

If you are still not convinced and are truly wanting to find out, take some college classes in geology and the visit these websites: International SEDI Webpage, AGU's SEDI Webpage, and the Union Commissions of the IUGG. You also may want to look up Maxwell's and Lenz's equations as well for the electrodynamics portion of your research.

Here are some questions for you:

1.) Would a speaker (driver) voice coil itself react out of phase from what it was before the shift??? Hmm....

2.) Would electro-static panels have to be flipped 180 degrees (turned around) for them to sound correct?? Hmm....

3.) Would a microphone like an AKG 414EB have to used on the "dark side" (loop switch engaged and mic turned 180 degrees)

Hmm....

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Q27: “What do you think about Torres Mods?”

A27: I really don't know much about "Torres Mods." I do know that a client of mine brought in a Vibro Champ amplifier and we installed the Torres Tweed Mod in it. I must admit, it is a good mod but really, it isn't much of a mod as it is a complete change-over of parts. I believe it is for the better of the amp if you are into "Tweedy-Type Tones" like I am. I liked it so much that I installed it in my Champ and now it is very useful in the studio (good break-up!). ( - back to FAQ...)

Q27a: “Which modifications does your company perform?”

A27a: We have done a ton of mods -- not just Fender and Marshall gain mods. Over the years, it has been a chore to list what we have done or what we will and won't do. Some modifications are specific to a need and others are just for the heck of it. Most of the stuff we have done has been long forgotten only because there was no documentation made or pictures taken of the result. They were done only once so who knows really how and what has been done in the past. Our reoccurring modifications have included mixing console channel transparency, power supply replacement (switching to analog - they are HUGE!), digital manipulation of control functions, memory expansion on older DX7 keyboards, custom preamplifiers both tube and solid-state, cosmetic enhancements, re-pedaling, and, of course, tone shaping and gain modifications on selected amplifiers. Check out our current list of FUTARA approved modifications. ( - back to FAQ...)

Q28: “My amp failed! Why?”

A28: It is usually one or a combination of failures that cause a piece of equipment to quit. Following are what I believe are the top 5 reasons why amps fail.

1. Bad tubes: Sometimes an amp will go a few years without the owner changing any tubes. So, just like tires on a car, they wear out and then blow! Change your tubes at least once a year if you play about 10 hours a week on them. This is cheap insurance.

2. Wrong speaker cables: Both solid state amps and tube amps do not function well with instrument cables used as speaker cables. The amp cannot deliver the current needed to drive a speaker with a tiny instrument cable hence, the power amp is stressed and will get too hot and fail (cable capacitance doesn't help either...)! Get the fattest, thickest, speaker cable you can get for greater power efficiency.

3. Abuse: Too many musicians still feel that the only way an amp will sound good is to turn the bad boy up as loud as it will go. OK! I agree to a point... Not all amps react like an old Marshall 50W JMP. In fact, a lot of new contemporary amps will blow if you turn every knob up - not to mention the speaker! Also, liquid spills, rough handling, kicking it during performance, the list goes on... All bad!

4. Lent to a friend: Are we suckers or what! "Hey dude, can I use your rig for a show tonight?" What do we usually say -- "sure..." Then it happens - the amp dies and your friend gives you that "I don't know what happened look"!

5. Neglect: So, you packed it in - threw in the towel - decided to get a real job and have a family. Now, you're 40 and the boys want to get the band back together and you decide to bring the old Marshall JMP or 800 out again. What? It doesn't work or won't work right!?! How about you leave your brand new American car in the garage for about 25 years and see if it starts (no cheating by putting a new battery in it first)! ( - back to FAQ...)

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FUTARA Electronics Company
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